Cape Finisterra and Muxia | Day 29

With flight scheduled back to the states coming quickly, I did not have the four days to walk out to the Cape and Muxia and get back to Santiago for my flight to Paris and then home. I was set on seeing both of these beautiful towns on the coast. I decided to rent a car and drive out instead of taking the three hour and 45 minute bus ride along with hundreds of other people.

I left Santiago in a Rent-A-Car (€60 for the day) and drove out with a German woman I met in Cathedral Square the day before through another Camino friend. It took us an hour and 15 minutes. It was very foggy when we left Santiago and we felt that our trip out there might be in vain. But, about 15 minutes before we got to the coast the fog cleared up and it was a beautiful day. The Camino provides.

We parked the car in Fisterra and walked the 3 km out to the lighthouse. Because we had gone so early, there were very few people there, and no tour buses! Each of us had time to sit by ourselves on the huge boulders, high above the ocean and take in this beautiful place. Cape Finisterra (meaning finish of land) is known as the End of the World, originating from the people that thought the world was flat, and they on their land were the only people on the flat whatever they called it. Galileo hadn’t yet come around. :) (get it? The pun).

I had another goal of scattering some of Kim and Austin‘s ashes here at the foot of the Cross next to the lighthouse. Mission accomplished.

Notice all the shoes left by pilgrims at the “foot” of the Cross. This is truly a very special place. I was told that there is a new regulation - Spain does not want people throwing their clothes away anymore at the Cape. Pilgrims would come and toss their clothes into the sea upon completion of their Camino. Many pieces of discarded clothes were washing up on beaches up and down the coast. People are still doing it.

The cape and lighthouse are very beautiful places. Staring at the ocean here is so peaceful. Listening to its sounds has warmed my soul and released so many grateful feelings.

We then walked back into town, popped in the car and set off for Muxia. For those who have seen the movie The Way, this is where Martin Sheen scattered his son’s ashes that had died in the beginning of the movie. It was a quick 30 minute drive, and again, no buses.

There was a very old church right above the ocean, the waves crashing on the rocks. There is another 0 km marker right at the end of the Camino path, next to the church.

I sat again for a long time reflecting on the journey, not as much the destination, although the surroundings at the coast helped my meditation. For me, the Camino is a very large and often difficult classroom. It is called The Way for a reason. It’s not a place to get to, but rather the process of getting there. From what I have witnessed, some people get it, and some people don’t. Some people just look at it as a hike, and others feel it as something much deeper. That will be something for you to experience and figure out on your own Camino.

Tomorrow I will post some before and after pictures and thoughts.

Oh, I think I’m going to take another little walk soon. My legs will get restless, I’m sure. I thought training 3-5 miles a day before this trip was a lot of walking. It’s amazing what the body will do for you if you just ask, and just put one foot in front of the other…

This trip: nearly 500 miles, 30 days and just shy of 1,250,000 steps.